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Listening to the River

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by Kevin Boltz

The other night we set up camp at an abandoned village at upper Laberge. We were greeted by some fellow canoeists as well as a gentleman named Ben Learmont. Mr. Learmont has traveled the Yukon River every year since 1966 and had many fascinating stories and tips for our journey ahead, but the one thing that he emphasized the most was to take time to listen to the river. This morning I took some time to do just that. I sat at the edge of the bank where we set camp and just listened. I heard the constant hum of the bugs, the water sloshing around rocks, and the birds singing a morning song. It was quite relaxing way to start the morning, but I believe the sights and sounds of the river would have been must different during the peak of the Klondike Gold Rush.IMG_1091

Prior to the completion of the Klondike Highway the Yukon River was used as the industrial highway used to transport cargo from Whitehorse to Dawson City. Steam powered stern-wheelers were the main mode of transportation on the river from the 1860's to the creation of the Klondike Highway. A stern-wheeler is a paddle boat in which the paddles are located on the stern, back end, of the ship. The first stern-wheeler, Yukon, was built in 1869 and was 47 feet long. The last stern-wheeler, Klondike #2, was built in 1952 and was 210 feet long. Hundreds of stern-wheelers and barges were built by many different shipping companies to accommodate the variety of needs for trappers, miners, and traders found along the river. IMG_1089

Navigating their large boats on the 3 day journey from Whitehorse to Dawson City and then the 5 day journey back to Whitehorse was a very daunting and stressful task for each of the ship's captains. The captains had to maneuver through the river's sharp turns, and shallow river bottoms. The Yukon River proved to be too much for some captains and the evidence can be seen while canoeing the river. The remnants of the Casca #1 lay aground at upper Laberge, the S.S Evelyn is still deteriorating on Shipyard Island, and the hull of Klondike #1 protruding the shallow water at Klondike Bend.IMG_1378

The use of stern-wheelers has had a negative effect on various parts of the wilderness along the shores of the Yukon River. Rusted barrels have washed up along the shores of various points along the route. I do not know there exact reason for there existence, but I do know that a method of thawing the ice on Lake Laberge more quickly involved pouring crankcase oil was directly onto the ice. This allowed the smaller boats to navigate the lake earlier to get supplies to the northern region of the river.

There are also signs and place markers on our map that indicate a presence of a past wood yard. Stern-wheelers burned 2 to 3 cords of lumber an hour to create steam to power the tremendously large paddles. The wood camps would be contracted by the shipping companies to extract and pile thousands of cords of wood a year. This has definitely changed the balance of nature.IMG_1310

The creation of the Klondike Highway diminished the need of the stern-wheelers and the Yukon River. Today the river is mainly used by recreational canoeists, kayakers, and by the local First Nation communities.

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