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Rain, Wind and Cold. . . Fall is Here

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On Tuesday, we woke up to the sound of light rain on the tent. It was mellow as we packed up camp, but increased and persisted throughout the day. Wind too. . . from the east. . . a headwind!? We paddled, keeping warm. Passed the town of Whitedog. There was a dam not too far after that. Portaged around no problem. That was one of the shorter dam portages we've had to do on the Winnipeg River.

After the portage it got colder, windier, wetter. I was lamenting that I didn't keep my neoprene mitts handy that day. Fennel slept for the most part. He hates the rain. There was one an awkward moment where he woke up while we were rounding a windswept point. There were some rather steep waves and Fennel chose that moment to stand up in the canoe. Dave's stern words got him to sit rather quickly.

We didn't go very far that day. We were halted by the wind where the river opened up into a wider lake. What a relief to set up the tarp, then the tent, then crawl inside to remove wet layers and bask in a dry, warm sleeping bag.P7040303

Things were a bit better the next day. Still some rain, but the wind had shifted from the east to the northeast. That actually allowed us to use our little sail a bit. We stopped briefly in the vacation town of Minaki. It was a bit surreal to walk around and imagine what it would be like in the height of summer. Now it was cold, high on a hill, in the wind, and rather empty.

After that stop, we were hesitant to stop again. There was an unspoken concern that if we stopped for long in these cold, wet conditions, hypothermia would soon follow. Macro Bars kept us going. We finally stopped around 2pm, once the rain settled down again.

Shortly after lunch, Dave pointed out an expanding patch of blue behind us. This blanket of gray that had been hovering over us for several days was breaking up! Shortly after this, we were in full sun under a clear sky. There was still a crisp breeze, but that didn't matter with the glorious sun overhead.

That night we got within striking distance of Kenora, Ontario. The next day was just as sunny. We paddled the six remaining miles, portaged past one more dam, and happily paddled to the local campground. How surreal to see so many big buildings and motorboats from the water. Our wilderness landscape of white pines and spruce gave way to summer cottages and docks. We had made it to Lake of the Woods.

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