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Listening to the River

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by Kevin Boltz

The other night we set up camp at an abandoned village at upper Laberge. We were greeted by some fellow canoeists as well as a gentleman named Ben Learmont. Mr. Learmont has traveled the Yukon River every year since 1966 and had many fascinating stories and tips for our journey ahead, but the one thing that he emphasized the most was to take time to listen to the river. This morning I took some time to do just that. I sat at the edge of the bank where we set camp and just listened. I heard the constant hum of the bugs, the water sloshing around rocks, and the birds singing a morning song. It was quite relaxing way to start the morning, but I believe the sights and sounds of the river would have been must different during the peak of the Klondike Gold Rush.IMG_1091

Prior to the completion of the Klondike Highway the Yukon River was used as the industrial highway used to transport cargo from Whitehorse to Dawson City. Steam powered stern-wheelers were the main mode of transportation on the river from the 1860's to the creation of the Klondike Highway. A stern-wheeler is a paddle boat in which the paddles are located on the stern, back end, of the ship. The first stern-wheeler, Yukon, was built in 1869 and was 47 feet long. The last stern-wheeler, Klondike #2, was built in 1952 and was 210 feet long. Hundreds of stern-wheelers and barges were built by many different shipping companies to accommodate the variety of needs for trappers, miners, and traders found along the river. IMG_1089

Navigating their large boats on the 3 day journey from Whitehorse to Dawson City and then the 5 day journey back to Whitehorse was a very daunting and stressful task for each of the ship's captains. The captains had to maneuver through the river's sharp turns, and shallow river bottoms. The Yukon River proved to be too much for some captains and the evidence can be seen while canoeing the river. The remnants of the Casca #1 lay aground at upper Laberge, the S.S Evelyn is still deteriorating on Shipyard Island, and the hull of Klondike #1 protruding the shallow water at Klondike Bend.IMG_1378

The use of stern-wheelers has had a negative effect on various parts of the wilderness along the shores of the Yukon River. Rusted barrels have washed up along the shores of various points along the route. I do not know there exact reason for there existence, but I do know that a method of thawing the ice on Lake Laberge more quickly involved pouring crankcase oil was directly onto the ice. This allowed the smaller boats to navigate the lake earlier to get supplies to the northern region of the river.

There are also signs and place markers on our map that indicate a presence of a past wood yard. Stern-wheelers burned 2 to 3 cords of lumber an hour to create steam to power the tremendously large paddles. The wood camps would be contracted by the shipping companies to extract and pile thousands of cords of wood a year. This has definitely changed the balance of nature.IMG_1310

The creation of the Klondike Highway diminished the need of the stern-wheelers and the Yukon River. Today the river is mainly used by recreational canoeists, kayakers, and by the local First Nation communities.

The Majestic Black Bear

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by Maureen Hanzel

 

“Is that black spot moving” Melissa questioned as she peered across the river from our cozy camp site. That black spot was moving. There is was a black bear in search of food at dusk. It was only a few hours earlier that I realized that we were in a perfect spot for bears. Black bears enjoy eating summer blueberries within the white spruce forests of the Yukon Territory; similar to the area of our campsite.  IMG_1340

While they are the least studied large mammal in the Yukon there numbers exceed the grizzly bear at roughly 10,000 black bears and between 6,000 and 7,000 grizzly bears. Beyond being larger in numbers black bears are a smaller, less aggressive bears than grizzlies, but every precaution should be made when traveling in a known black bear area. Carrying “bear spray”, a large can of pepper spray, on your person at all times is important. Measures should be taken when setting up camp like designating a separate food preparation site downwind of your tents: This is important, because bears follow their noses and it would be better if they hit the food before you. At night make sure to hang your food and other smelly items at least 10 feet off the ground and six feet away from any trees to prevent bears from reaching it. P7290446

Black bears are curious animals which generally leads to some amount of human interaction, but generally they avoid people. The perception of black bears has changed over time from being respected as great spirits by the Yukon natives to being hunted when firearms were developed. Today things are turning around and people are being more bear conscientious by including garbage incinerators at some large campsites and using bear prevention measures. Although it was a treat to experience a bear sighting, I would rather the bear stay a safe distance and busy in the bushes in the search for delicious blueberries across the river.

Backcountry Uses for Medicinal and Edible Plants of the Yukon

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by Konrad Taube

From paddling down the Yukon to hiking up mountains at Hootalinqua, we are immersed in and surrounded by nature. We are stunned not only by how magnificent and transcendental nature is, but by how we are able to respectfully use the natural world to aide us on our adventure. From food to medicinal uses, simple methods of helping oneself are around each river bend, requiring only one's eye and basic knowledge of their surroundings in order to tap into nature's potential.

Blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, and rose hips grow wild in the Yukon and around the Yukon river. Containing Vitamins A, B1, B2, C, Calcium, Potassium, and Iron, these wild, treats are major preventers of malnourishment and are also delicious. The phenomenal qualities of these plants can be eaten raw or prepared into tea form, and all one is required to do is go out and search for nature's bounty. IMG_1345

Blood poisoning, nausea, and diarrhea – these are some of the many conditions that can injure an unlucky adventurer; luckily, nature has remedies to help cure these ailments. The powerful wormwood plant is made into a tea and consumed to help combat blood poisoning, caused by infected cuts. Change of diet, contaminated water, or spoiled food are frequent causes of diarrhea. The wormwood plant's bark can be eaten to remedy this sickness. Nausea, often caused by food, water, or seasickness, can be cured by drinking raspberry leaf tea. Each of these sicknesses can be very serious in a camp setting, due to their tendencies to be fatiguing or dehydrating, and the proper use of these three plants can be potentially life saving.

While we love and enjoy nature, we must also respect and revere it. Delicious and nutritious plants can be found consistently, but by eating a poisonous plant thought to be a beneficial one, one's sense of security can be completely inverted. Knowing one's surroundings and properly educating oneself about the wild edibles prior to one's wilderness venture is essential to maintaining a safe and pleasant trip into the wild.

Exploring the Yukon Wilderness

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by Kevin Boltz and Konrad Taube

As we have been traveling down the Yukon River for the past two days, we have seen many forms of wildlife: vast acres of dense green forest and steem shores of sand and rock. These beautiful scenes seem perfectly pristine, but human artifacts, such as boat wrecks, old abandoned cabins, wood camps, and washed up tires and barrels are physical blemishes of the Klondike Gold Rush on this wilderness. It is amazing to research the evolution of the Yukon River from primitive wilderness to industrial highway. Now, people are working to transform the river to its original state.

“The term wilderness originates from Teutonic and Norse languages: ‘will’ meaning self-willed, ‘deor’ meaning animal and ‘ness’ meaning place.” (Nash, 1967) A single definition of wilderness is very difficult to assemble because of how subjective it is. A student in Chicago might consider the Chicago River to be Wilderness, while a Yukon trapper might completely disagree and give his or her own definition. Our group defined wilderness as: “a large isolated area, untrammeled by humans with a true sense of freedom, where everything feels uncaged.” Our definition is based off of our expectation of seeing fewer people; we’ve encountered numerous adventurers seeking similar solitude in nature (contrary to our initial belief), fewer signs of human contact (people, trash, roads, sounds, etc.), and the frequency of spotting the numerous kinds of wildlife (we had thought we’d find much more than we have so far).

-What is your definition of wilderness?

 

-What would you expect to find there?

 

-What is been the wildest place you have been?

 

-There is a federally designated wilderness area in almost every state in the US. What is the closest area near you?

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The canoes and kayaks are beached on a sandbar for our lunch break.

DSCN4077 Dave and Kelsey are excited to reach the north end of Lake Laberge.

 

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The sunset was beautiful on Lake Laberge.

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This bald eagle was not disturbed by Maureen and Kevin paddling close enough for this picture.

IMG_3089 Maureen is enjoying a calm night on Lake Laberge.

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Dave and Kevin are fixing a rudder pedal.

 

 

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We are traveling past the rocky cliffs on Lake Laberge.

Getting our feet wet on the Yukon River

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