Latest Tweets

Follow us on twitter

Make a Donation

$

Route Description

NAO News Feed

NAO main Feed

Updates

Syenite Pass

Print PDF

8-16-10

Hiked 8 miles

Yesterday we trekked over Syenite Pass. The day before we hiked 6 miles down into the Tombstone River Valley and hiked up toward the pass. We had been hoping to get over the pass, but the uphill slog through brush in really hot sun had taken its toll. Oh well. We were slightly ahead of schedule anyway, so stopping in that beautiful alpine valley with a clear, cold stream running past was quite alright.8_15_10HikeDown

We set our tent up on a little mound with a strategically placed boulder on it. We had a view down the valley to a mini lake formed by that stream. We could also see the pass from our tent. Then, we were surrounded by crazy steep mountain spires on either side.

Dave told me that at one point in the night he realized it was actually dark outside. Stepping out of the tent, he saw stars for the first time in a long while. The Big Dipper was coming up over one of the mountains and the North Star was almost overhead.

Hiking over Syenite Pass was, honestly, a was a bit easier than expected. Sure, it was steep. I thought it was neat how it sort of leveled off at the top. Other passes I have done have been steep and just gotten steeper as you go up. We noted that we actually could have camped right on top of the pass. The view was spectacular, looking down on two gorgeous alpine lakes and the valley that forms the West Blackstone River.

8_16_10SynitePass Coming down the pass was our most technical bit of hiking, because of the large boulder field. It was odd how easy it was at first, picking our way through the gently sloping terrain. The further down we climbed, the steeper it got. We just slowly picked our way down. Several times we shifted a rock or two, holding our breath, hoping that more wouldn't tumble.

It was a relief to reach the bottom with no bumps, bruises, or twisted ankles. We followed a caribou trail along the west side of the lake. Stopped for lunch and a swim at a nice rocky spot, where we had a view of the cliffs that were just below another alpine lake. We soaked up the sunshine.

The rest of the day was spent piecing together game trails in the tundra. It is worth noting that there are no trees here and permafrost lies under the ground, making this one of the southernmost regions of arctic wildlife and plants. That reminds me-- we saw our first ptarmigan when hiking up the Syenite Pass.8_16_10CaribouAntler1

We found several caribou antlers scattered in the landscape, chewed at the tips by mice and pikas in need of calcium. It was another hot, sunny day, which was made hotter by the fact that we needed to wear our bug shirts. Clouds of black flies (I say black fly because that's what they looked like, but they didn't really bite) hovered around our heads, constantly flying into our noses, eyes, and mouths. After the fifth bug flew up my nose, I donned the bug shirt. Dave instigated wearing just the bug shirt with no other shirt under it-- to stay cool. I followed suit. It helped.

We hiked through the spongy, brushy, and (at times) mucky tundra ground, trying to get on game trails whenever possible. We had heard that a horse trail ran along the river here, so we were constantly keeping an eye out for it, with no luck so far. The going was slow. We would try to get on top of ridge-lines and cut off bends in the river. The big thing was to avoid slogging through marshy terrain.

We stopped to make dinner and rest a bit on a little rise. Both of us felt sort of discouraged at that point, slowed by the heat and the difficult terrain. After a delicious batch of pasta, our spirits were buoyed a bit. Once we started hiking again (this time down closer to the river) our luck changed. We found the horse trail!

8_16_10lake1 This may sound like a rather small feat, but given the struggle we were having moving through the landscape, finding the horse trail was momentous. It was odd, looking down in the mud and identifying horseshoe prints and even the occasional human boot print in the mud after days of following the cloven hoof marks of caribou.

So we hiked on the horse trail in the heat and the bugs. As we were beginning to think about camp for the night, the trail led right to the river. It was a braided stretch of river-- shallow and wide, broken up by many gravel bars. Dave spotted a green shack across the river. It must be used by the horse packer who guides hunting trips out here.

We walked from gravel bar to gravel bar, wading through the shallow water. After a bit of discussion, we picked a nice, relatively high gravel bar to camp on, not far from the green shack. We were only slightly concerned about what would happen to our little gravel bar if we got a big rain. It sprinkled a bit in the night and fears of a downpour and flash flood ran through my head. Fortunately this fear didn't materialize. It was only a sprinkle that didn't last long and had no effect on the water level.

I remember stepping out to pee in the middle of the night. Like Dave, I was amazed to witness darkness. The sky was overcast and there was a pink glow on the northern horizon, stretching much further than your typical sunrise, as only can be seen in a northern summer sky.

A Difficult Day

Print PDF

8-14-10

Hiked 6 miles

Okay, so I skipped yesterday. It was good. We hiked about 12 miles.  We got to the end of the trail and then spent half the day ridge walking. We set up camp near where we needed to drop down into the Little Twelve Mile River Valley.

Now for today. . . It was cold in the morning, but quickly warmed up as the sun rose. A word about our campsite-- there is this mysterious rock pit near where we set up our tent. It reminds us of the Pukaskwa Pits we saw on Lake Superior. It was great sleeping up high-- above the trees for the most part.8_13_10DaveBack

Back to today. . . as we descended into the Little Twelve Mile River Valley, the terrain got brushy in a hurry. We were able to follow a game trail form most of the way down. When we weren't dealing with willows and alders, we were walking on top of two-foot thick moss. It was like walking on a giant sponge.

We tried to angle east, because the start of our hike up to the pass was a couple of miles upstream. The vegetation got really dense. Maybe it would be better walking right near the river? We dropped down near the river and quickly realized this was a mistake. The valley was steep and the vegetation came right up to the water.

8_13_10Little12MileValley Back up we went. Actually, scrambled is a more appropriate word. So the river was raging where we first popped down next to it. Anxiety quickly built in my head about how we would eventually have to cross that thing. This, combined with the struggle to get up the steep moss and alder covered hill caused a moment of panic for me.

I started crying and sat down in the moss. Dave asked what was wrong and comforted me when I told him. “What are we getting ourselves into?” were my exact words. He's so good at calming me down and reassuring me. He saw the big picture and knew we we would soon be high above this alder-choked riverbank. There was also something about seeing in his eyes the deep concern he had for my well-being that made me want to pull myself together.

I took a deep breath and wiped my face. On we went, up the bank, slowly fighting the alders with every step. A more accurate way to describe it would be something like this: We would get our legs, arms, and packs tangled in the alders and then (cursing all the while) we would push through this patch, satisfied by momentary victory until being halted by the next tangle of branches.

This went on for a while until we reached the spot where the valley opened up. Then, we worked our way down. The spot where we crossed the river was really good. It was smaller here and the deepest spot was just over knee-deep.8_14_10Amy

We began angling ourselves northeast, aiming for a ridge-line that would lead us to the pass between Chert and Sheep Mountains. Easier said than done. We spent the afternoon battling vegetation on the steep slope. Some spots were just covered in a two-foot carpet of moss, but the steep, steep clamber uphill zapped our energy.

We took frequent breaks and tried not to get discouraged. It helped when we had climbed high enough out of the valley to see our progress. From then on, at every break we could look at the ever-increasingly beautiful scene below us and feel some satisfaction.

It was hard work. It was slow, painfully slow at times. This day was probably the hardest day of the North American Odyssey for me-- possibly the hardest day of my life. I was a bit hesitant to write that, because tomorrow could very well be harder. We shall see.

Beginning the Hike

Print PDF
8-11-10

We’re trying something different here. . . Ever since leaving Dawson, I kept a fairly detailed journal.  We’ll publish several journal entries from that here.  People have been requesting to hear more about daily life on the trail, so here it is . . . a little less educational, but a little more human-interest.  (For the educational stuff, go to wildernessclassroom.org)

Hiked 10 miles8_11_10AmyDave

Thank goodness we left Dawson today. It is a nice town and all, but Dave and I had gotten too mired down in website work and packing, not to mention the fact that we were turning into zombies from lack of sleep. Although there is always more website work to be done, more grants to write, and more trip logistics to attend to, we slung our packs over our shoulders and got the heck out of Dodge-- er . . . Dawson.

The first 30 miles of the hike are on an old road. It started off as a somewhat well-maintained gravel road that gradually transformed into a trap line and then petered out through stretches of marsh, leaving a faint trail uphill above the Little Twelve Mile River Valley.

We walked on the rutted gravel road, admiring the view of the Tombstones from a distance. Eventually we turned onto a much less used road, used by a trapper in the winter. Periodically as we walked we would spot old pine marten traps.

The road became increasingly overgrown as we walked. We nabbed raspberries whenever we spotted a particularly full bush. Animal tracks and scat kept the hike interesting. Wolf, caribou, moose, and even a small black bear.

8_11_10marten This road is an old maintenance road for this flume/trench thing used for gold mining 100 years ago. Its creation must have been quite an undertaking-- a feat of man's engineering to harness several rivers over many miles, all the way to Dawson. We are camped near the site of an old sawmill, used to process the firewood used to power the steam shovels that dug the trench. Bits of machinery from the sawmill are visible in the muskeg.

That's right-- it's kind of marshy around here. We've been able to skirt the edges of the really wet stuff so far. The caribou tracks have greatly increased in number. (I sure hope we see some.) We are camped near a stream. Game trails criss-cross all over.

Since our start wasn't until afternoon, we hiked until 8 pm. Not that time matters here, since it is light until 11 pm. Still, we decided a quick dinner would be best-- no cooking, just lunch food. Tortillas, cheese, Landjaegers, nuts, banana chips, with a handful of chocolate chips for dessert.8_12_10flume

Since we are camped right near the main trail, I peed on either side of the tent. Dave set up his hiking poles as a visual cue to anything that might wander down the trail. We are also drying the mothball thing with our food. We have heard from several sources that bears don't like the smell of 'em. I sure hope it's not just some old wife's tale, because I would hate to be subjected to the stench of mothballs for nothing. Ben, who we met near Lower Laberge even told us that he scatters them around his tent. We didn't go that far yet. I think I'd rather confirm they're not a bear attractant first.

Y'know, earlier today when we were hiking, I thought I smelled stale cigarettes. It was shortly after passing a crushed beer can, so I assumed the person who drank it also had a cigarette or tow. However, I continued to notice that same smell for several miles. It only now occurs to me that what I probably smelled was the packet of mothballs tucked inside my backpack. Sigh.

Grizzly Bear and Moose!

Print PDF
8-12-10

Hiked 15 miles

We left the Yukon River and hiked into a new watershed, in order to continue our progress north. We spent 8 days hiking 70 miles in Tombstone Territorial Park.8_11_10AmyDave

The first 30 miles of the hike are on an old road. It started off as a somewhat well-maintained gravel road that gradually transformed into a trap line and then petered out through stretches of marsh, leaving a faint trail uphill above the Little Twelve Mile River Valley.

A highlight of the hike occurred on the second day of the hike. The following has been taken directly from my journal entry for August 12. . .

Ordinary beginning to the day. I had a hard time waking up. The alarm was set for 8 am and I slept right through it. Dave was nice enough to let me sleep in a bit. Granola and powdered milk for breakfast. It's still hard to get everything in backpacks. A few more meals should take care of that.

We've been trying to make a lot of noise as we hike-- so as not to surprise a bear. We realize that this unfortunately reduces our chances of seeing any other wildlife. We would carry on a conversation fairly loudly and continuously. We soon realized that we needed to be even louder and more blatant our presence today.8_12_10moose2

The roadbed had gotten pretty overgrown, surrounded by alders. We had come to a low-lying spot. Dave was in front and could see a small marsh ahead. Sure enough-- there was a large bull moose in that marsh chowing down on some aquatic plants. I had been mid-sentence when Dave hushed me and asked for the camera. I started to pull it out of my pocket when we heard a rustling in the spruces just to the left of the trail.

Another moose was the first logical thought that passed through our minds. A flash of brown fur pretty much confirmed that thought. I even caught a glimpse of the critter's shoulder-- it appeared quite moose-like, but a bit shorter. A young moose.

Then, it stuck its head through a gap in the trees to get a better look at us. It was not a moose peering at us. Instead it was a grizzly bear. Our first grizzly bear sighting of the North American Odyssey-- and it was only 25 feet away from us!!

It huffed at us and took a couple more steps. We talked to it-- letting it know we were humans, while reaching for our bear spray. It huffed a couple more times, but moved further into the spruces. Apparently this young grizzly had been so engrossed in eating blueberries that it hadn't paid any attention to us, despite the noise we were making. It was only when we stopped near its berry patch, that it paid any attention to us.

The bear running away was our cue to move on, slowly down the path-- toward the gigantic bull moose that hadn't taken its eyes off us during the entire bear encounter. When we were far enough from where we saw the bear, we shot a quick video and photos of the moose. The trail led right to his mini pond. As we approached, he began to snort at us, clearly threatened. So we bush-wacked wide around his pond.

Our detour was to the right of him, and he slowly spun in a circle, always keeping his eye on us. As we clambered back on to the trail, he returned to his contented munching. We both breathed a sigh of relief, astounded at the double animal encounter that had just unfolded in a matter of seconds.8_13_10camp

As we continued down the trail we began to yell, instead of just talking. We yelled to imaginary bears. These imaginary bears were just ahead or just off the trail. We told these bears that we didn't want to startle them and that there were plenty of blueberries in the woods. So please move away from the trail to let us pass. Whether or not there were any real bears who heard us, we would never know because we didn't see a single other bear for the rest of the hike.

Highlight from Hiking in Tombstone Territorial Park

Print PDF

We left the Yukon River and hiked into a new watershed, in order to continue our progress north. We spent 8 days hiking 70 miles in Tombstone Territorial Park.8_11_10AmyDave

The first 30 miles of the hike are on an old road. It started off as a somewhat well-maintained gravel road that gradually transformed into a trap line and then petered out through stretches of marsh, leaving a faint trail uphill above the Little Twelve Mile River Valley.

A highlight of the hike occurred on the second day of the hike. The following has been taken directly from my journal entry for August 12. . .

Ordinary beginning to the day. I had a hard time waking up. The alarm was set for 8 am and I slept right through it. Dave was nice enough to let me sleep in a bit. Granola and powdered milk for breakfast. It's still hard to get everything in backpacks. A few more meals should take care of that.

We've been trying to make a lot of noise as we hike-- so as not to surprise a bear. We realize that this unfortunately reduces our chances of seeing any other wildlife. We would carry on a conversation fairly loudly and continuously. We soon realized that we needed to be even louder and more blatant our presence today.8_12_10moose2

The roadbed had gotten pretty overgrown, surrounded by alders. We had come to a low-lying spot. Dave was in front and could see a small marsh ahead. Sure enough-- there was a large bull moose in that marsh chowing down on some aquatic plants. I had been mid-sentence when Dave hushed me and asked for the camera. I started to pull it out of my pocket when we heard a rustling in the spruces just to the left of the trail.

Another moose was the first logical thought that passed through our minds. A flash of brown fur pretty much confirmed that thought. I even caught a glimpse of the critter's shoulder-- it appeared quite moose-like, but a bit shorter. A young moose.

Then, it stuck its head through a gap in the trees to get a better look at us. It was not a moose peering at us. Instead it was a grizzly bear. Our first grizzly bear sighting of the North American Odyssey-- and it was only 25 feet away from us!!

It huffed at us and took a couple more steps. We talked to it-- letting it know we were humans, while reaching for our bear spray. It huffed a couple more times, but moved further into the spruces. Apparently this young grizzly had been so engrossed in eating blueberries that it hadn't paid any attention to us, despite the noise we were making. It was only when we stopped near its berry patch, that it paid any attention to us.

The bear running away was our cue to move on, slowly down the path-- toward the gigantic bull moose that hadn't taken its eyes off us during the entire bear encounter. When we were far enough from where we saw the bear, we shot a quick video and photos of the moose. The trail led right to his mini pond. As we approached, he began to snort at us, clearly threatened. So we bush-wacked wide around his pond.

Our detour was to the right of him, and he slowly spun in a circle, always keeping his eye on us. As we clambered back on to the trail, he returned to his contented munching. We both breathed a sigh of relief, astounded at the double animal encounter that had just unfolded in a matter of seconds.8_13_10camp

As we continued down the trail we began to yell, instead of just talking. We yelled to imaginary bears. These imaginary bears were just ahead or just off the trail. We told these bears that we didn't want to startle them and that there were plenty of blueberries in the woods. So please move away from the trail to let us pass. Whether or not there were any real bears who heard us, we would never know because we didn't see a single other bear for the rest of the hike.